Marfy Coat #5

Finally got back to the coat after a short jaunt to Mississippi and a LONG work week. You can see from the pictures that it’s coming together pretty well (needs a thorough pressing). I’m not happy with the sleeves, and may have to go back to zero on them. Remember that I had to add 4 inches to the width of the sleeve, and even though I tried not to alter the sewing line, the sleeve was larger than the armscye. I also had to adjust the armscye because the shoulder was too long and the front curve needed to be made smaller. Add to that thaat this fabric has no give (I doubt the final fabric will either), and it was a pain. Some sewing teacher told me they drafted sleeves in the 40s when the caps were all puffy, and you always have to adjust them. Any suggestions? I do think this muslin will be very wearable, and I love the pockets! Notes to self:  topstitch pocket flap and add buttonhole before attaching.

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Finally Started!

I’ve finally got a move on with this coat!  Yesterday, while my son napped, I traced the pattern.  It’s an 11 piece coat!  That doesn’t even include non-pattern pieces like bindings, the belt, belt loots, etc.  Next comes my least favorite part of using magazine patterns, adding seam allowances.  I despise it.  I really don’t understand why they can’t just go ahead add the seam allowances.  I will try to do some of the work today but we’ll see!

I think I’m going to get a good coat sewing book because I foresee needed help with this pattern, especially since Burda’s instructions are exactly thorough.  Can anyone recommend one?

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My Trench

Thanks for letting me join the trench sew along.I am planning to sew a coat dress which is vintage Simplicty 7805.

About the fabric I am thinkin of a light weight wool and satin lining.It does not have a belt and I scored this pattern quite some time ago on Etsy and never looked at it untill now !

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My introduction

Hi everyone! I’m Sophie from Filasewphie, and I am pleased to join you all. This is the first coat I’m attempting, so I’m sure I’ll need a lot of help. I’m planning on making McCall’s 5525 for my twin sister. I have a green linen-type fabric with large white flowers on it from JoAnn Fabrics and some green silk inherited from my grandmother to line it with. What I’m working on now is finding some wind breaking fabric to underline the coat, as my sister is off to college in a windy city.

I can’t figure out how to post a picture on WordPress, but you can see the fabric I’m going to use at this post.

Sophie

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Marfy Coat #4

I didn’t do any sewing yesterday. I ran out of removable scotch tape, and had to make a trip to the office supply store. Then it occurred to me that some of you may not know about removable scotch tape. It’s the ONLY thing to use on pattern tissue, and you really can remove it without tearing up your pattern!  WalMart doesn’t carry it, and the only place I know where you can get it is an office supply store. It comes in a blue box. Be careful not to get the “invisible” tape, which also comes in a blue box.  And they put it in such an obscure place, the absolute bottom shelf, that you really have to hunt for it. But it’s worth the effort!  It really takes the trouble out of tissue fitting your pattern.  (I am not very sympathetic with you NorthEasterners, who are having a heat wave. In a few days, you’ll be back to normal, while here in Houston (and throughout the South) we endure it for 3-4 months.)

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Vogue Pattern V8307

I’m just deciding on the pattern to use for the sew along. It’s a toss up between view A and view B. I’m kind of leaning towards the jacket though, only because I was going to buy a short jacket for the fall.The pattern calls for mohair, light-weight Melton or tweed. I found a nice chocolate brown and off-white tweed on-line, that I fell in love with from Mood but I am going to shop around a little. I’m going to do my muslin first and worry about fabric later.

Wish me luck, this is the first time I’ll take on a project this size. Hopefully, by October I have something worthwhile.

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In the Trenches, Indeed or Marfy, Post #3.

Cut out and hanging on the design wall.

Thank you to 98Red Balloons for her nice comment about how lucky I am to have such a good friend. And I truly am! For she came up with the greatest idea to not forget the seam and hem allowances. She suggested I chalk in the cutting line on the fabric around the pattern. That way I won’t forget! And it worked great. Today I got the “muslin” cut out, and all the pieces hanging on my design wall.

Above, you see the pattern picture of the coat. The top of the pocket is the bottom of the side insert. I think you make a patch pocket and it covers the side front, and the flap tucks into the upper seam (bottom of the side insert).  Do you agree? Any other suggestions?

Tomorrow I’ll sew the muslin together, and fit, fit, fit, and probably throw one!

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Materials!

The long-awaited 50% off sale at Fabricland came! So I have at last assembled what I *think* are everything I will need for my coat (I probably need more interfacing, actually. I gave in and went with the light grey Kasha lining, as they didn’t have black and I didn’t like any of their colours. I picked up two kinds of insulative  interlining. They both are fairly dense polyester felted things, one with a foil backing, one without. The one with the foil backing was very expensive, so I assume that means it’s awesome. Neither is very drapy, but I think they’ll do just for the bodice and possibly sleeves.

That’s the fashion fabric on the left, the foil-backed interlining top centre, and the Kasha on the right.

For a quick reminder,  my pattern is a princess-seamed, full-skirted, full-length coat (see picture).  Now here’s a question: the pattern came with a one-piece sleeve; however, I understand that two piece sleeves are generally better-fitting. I’m already planning to mess with the armscye and sleeve-cap on this so, all else being equal, do you think it would be worth my trouble to draft it into a two-piece sleeve (I have seen a tutorial for this) or even just substitute a two-piece coat sleeve pattern I have? I’m thinking particularly if I d0 underline the coat sleeves, they will be quite stiff and I want them to fit nicely.

Hmm, I guess this means I have to try to trace out my actual pattern, hey?

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Marfy Trench Coat Update

Started working with my trenchcoat pattern today. Remember, it has no instructions and no seam or hem allowances. I ordered a 46. The first task was to figure out where all the pieces go, and then to try to tissue fit. I brought an old London Fog up to the sewing room and hung it on my dress form. Then, I started pinning and comparing the pattern pieces to the existing coat. I started with the sleeve. My biceps are 17″, so I wanted the sleeves about 20″ to have enough ease to have on a sweater under it. The pattern pieces gave me just under 16″, So I had to add at least 4. Out came Sandra Betzina’s Fast Fit. Then, I pinned the front and back pieces to the coat, and discovered I needed another 4″ in the front. The back looked okay, but I added another inch anyway. I can always take it in. My girlfriend was with me working a a t-shirt quilt for her nephew who recently graduated form West Point. She laughed and called it Pattern Making 101. About two hours later, I was ready to start laying the pattern on the fabric and cutting. After I cut the first piece, my friend asked me, “Are you adding seam allowances?” The answer was “Oh, fooey!” (or words to that effect). Fortunately, I have 5 yards of 60″ wide fabric for my muslin. I need a big sign that says “Don’t forget seam and hem allowances.” We decided it was time to knock off and take a nap. We’re meeting to go eat Mexican food and then off to a friend’s party where he and his son annually spend over $1000 on fireworks. Happy Fourth of July, everybody! I’m off all next week, so I’m going to try to get my muslin made.

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~trenchcoat progress~

It was a rainy day here today – so what better way to spend it than sewing!  I started sewing my trenchcoat, after much procrastination about buttons and buttonholes – mainly because I don’t have a buttonholer at the moment.

I finally took the plunge and decided on bound buttonholes – even though trenchcoats usually have keyhole buttonholes, and even though I have not decided upon my buttons, and even though I think my fabric has a tendency to fray!  After testing on a scrap I decided they looked really nice, and if they fray I will just have to make another trench in another fabric!

So here is my partially assembled shell, put to bed for the night on the mannequin, with all its parts in various stages of make and unmake:

I’ve done the gun flap buttonhole, and before I do the ones on the wrap I want to double-check their positioning.  It would have been much easier if I had done them at the beginning with less bulk around, but that’s what you get when you procrastinate!

OK – tomorrow I am working on the rest of those buttonholes, and then the collar and sleeves…..

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